Very similar to the Australorp we went over last week, the Sussex is a beautiful breed that is very popular for a couple of reasons. But it’s also not the perfect chicken for a couple of reasons. Thus, I am preparing yet another article profiling a chicken breed and this week is the Sussex.
Pros
They are relatively good egg layers
The Sussex lays an average of 200-250 eggs a year, which is on the higher end of chickens. They are often listed in the top ten egg laying chickens, which is a pretty high position.
2. They are great moms
I am a newbie in the Sussex fan club, but Chixy just went broody!
The Sussex is renowned for its motherhood abilities. While breeds like the Australorp may be more quick to brood, they are not as talented of mothers as the Sussex. The Sussex is large and can successfully sit 20 eggs at once.
Here’s how many eggs Chixy currently feels safe sitting on.
3. They are very beautiful, and come in many colors
I personally have found my Speckled Sussex spectacular! Besides speckled take a look at some beautiful varieties:
Normal (white)
Buff
Coronation
Red
Brown
Silver
4. They are more predator resistant than average.
This breed is quite large which means that they can avoid more predators than many smaller breeds, even the feisty ones like R.I.Rs.
Weasels, smaller racoons, and some foxes are more likely to shy away from this big bird.
5. They are nice to humans
What can I tell you. My chickens just really like my little brother.
I know this has been a pro in lots of these posts but that’s because I do posts on the ones I got, and I got the friendly ones! These birds are not afraid of anything! They love snuggles and cuddles!
Cons
They do not have a wonderful conversion ratio
A conversion ratio is the amount of consumed food weighed against the amount of produce (eggs or meat). Even though they lay a good bit of eggs, they also eat a lot of food. Partially this is due to their size. However, a bantam Sussex will not have this problem.
She’s eating so quick, her head is blurry!
2. They tend to dominate
Like R.I.Rs, the Sussex likes to dominate. In fact, this has led to me having to separate the two breeds. They like to take the top, so smaller weaker breeds may get bullied, as well as other breeds who like living at the top.
My Americana Buckbeak has proved good company for Chixy, as had Eerie, the Rhode Island Blue, and Snow Chicken the… mutt.
3. They are curious
Curiosity killed the cats, and curiosity has also led to some cats getting dinner in the form of a Sussex.
The Sussex loves to explore, so you do not want to choose them as free rangers, as you may never see them again because they are lone wanderers, or worse, they ran into a wolf along the way.
As a third chicken to my series on various chicken breeds, their pros, and their cons, the Australorp was my third choice of chicken, because I have grown quite attached to Marmee. Yes, all ye Little Women fans may clap if you want. Marmee has earned her title for her wonderful mother hood, which happens to be our first pro.
Pros
They are great brooders
Marmee raising a conglomeration of different breeds
When our Australorp first went broody, we had no rooster so we got some eggs from a friend and she hatched them and raised them wonderfully. Australorps are one of the few commercial breeds still known for brooding. That being said, Marmee’s sister Santa Fe, never did go broody. So I suppose it depends a little on the chicken.
2. Egg laying
Though not always listed in the top ten, the Australorp is considered Australia’s best egg-layer and my 7-8 year old Marmee still does not disappoint! 250-300 eggs is typical in peak years and I’d say mine still lays more than 250. In fact, breeders were so impressed with Australorps and the Rhode Island that they crossed them to create the wonderful Rhode Island Blue, which I hope to do a later post on.
3. Egg laying persistence
They lay in the winter, they lay in the rain. They’re great. They may not be the highest egg layer, but they are consistent, and that’s what I like.
4. They are colorful
They come black, white and blue. Those can be crossed to get various blends. They are very pretty. I personally find the black and blue preferable.
5. They are great pets
Besides being good as workers, they form strong bonds with humans, and are known to be affectionate.
6. There is a bantam version
These adorable bantams are just minis of the same large chicken. They too lay eggs, making a good alternative for people with limited room.
7. They are long lived
The average life span is 8-12 years, which is pretty good!
CONS
They are not the biggest egg layers
They are great chickens, but they aren’t Rhode Island Reds, and they certainly aren’t Amberlinks. This is why they are not the only kind of chicken.
2. They are hard to find besides the black ones
That.
Here shown are (from left to right) blue, black, and white. (Credit: Backyard Chicken Coop)
CONCLUSION
Australorps are one of the single best chickens around. They are certainly delightful. They may not be the best for utility, but they are great!
When we breed animals, be it chickens, dogs, fish, or pheasants, we’re bound to run into terms like Hybrid, Crossbreed, and Mix-breed.
Unfortunately, clarity is oft forsook for convenience and one such occasion took place in the realm of these 3 terms. Barely anyone knows what they mean!
To add to the confusion, the biologist’s definition is different than the domestic animal cultivator’s definition, but the latter only is the topic of this post.
So, what’s the difference?
Hybrid
The Amberlink is a Hybrid.
The Hybrid different than the other three terms because it is the result of mixing at least three different species or breeds of animals. For instance, the Amberlink is a hybrid, because the standard has parentage from Rhode Island Reds, Rhode Island Whites, and White Plymouth Rocks, all of which are distinct breeds of chickens.
For the record, Hybrids more usually are selected and evolved by breeders more than Crossbreeds. For instance, the Amberlink, again, was selected over generations to lay more eggs, and be more hardy.
In the dog industry this definition has fallen in favor of the idea that a hybrid is a cross between species (like a wolf-dog).
2. Crossbreeds
The Rhode Island Blue is a Crossbreed
The Crossbreed is very simple. It is a mix between two, and only two breeds or species. The Rhode Island Blue, for you chicken fans, is a Crossbreed between the Rhode Island Red and the Australorp.
A Cockapoo (Cocker Spaniel-Poodle) is a dog Crossbreed.
A cut-throat pheasant (Lady Amherst-Golden) is a Crossbreed in Aviculture but a Hybrid in Biology, so you often hear it called both.
Cut-throat pheasants also happen to be an irresponsible use of the pure bloodlines, polluting pure blood, due to their ability to have offspring unlike, say, a mule.
I also thought you might want to see this… Guinea Hen – Chicken Crossbreed:
It looks like a hawk.
For the record, the Imperial Pheasant, in fact was a crossbreed that no one knew was a crossbreed. Crossbreeds can cause some confusion.
3. Mixed Breed
The Mixed Breed can be a Hybrid or a Crossbreed.
Mixed Breed is a term used when you simply do not know.
Like that dog that lives in your attic… Mixed Breed.
Here’s my Mixed Breed Snow Chicken:
Mixed Breed!
I have my suspicions (Australorp x Leg Horn???) but I really don’t know (plz comment if you know or have a good hypothesis, I’m rather curious).
Conclusion
Crossbreeds, Hybrids, and Mixed Breeds are three different and distinct concepts, and now you have my permission to have an informed conversation using theCORRECTavicultural terms!
Questions, Thoughts or Concerns? Epic Reeves x Ringneck Pheasant would like you to comment below!
The Rhode Island Red is one of the most famous breeds of chickens, popular for making hybrids like the Amberlink. They are great chickens, being rather pretty, but like every breed they aren’t perfect. Here’s a look at the ups and downs of these pretty chickens.
Pros
They lay lots of eggs
250-300 is average. So this is pretty good, placing at 5-6 eggs a week. It isn’t Amberlink but it’s pretty darn good. They are often placed as second only to hybrids in egg laying.
Baby Roxy and Roux on a pink Easter Bunny.
2. They lay during the winter
Unlike many chickens, the Rhode Island Red actually lays almost as much during winter as during summer. A year long supply should be easy with a flock of these.
3. They are good for meat
An egg-laying breed is often pretty bad meat, but I’ve heard that Rhode Island Reds are often considered dual purpose. With that in mind, you may want to be careful who you sell your chicks to if you get attached to them. Or if you support vegetarianism.
4. They are pretty
These are considered widely one of the most beautiful chicken breeds. The roosters are amazing!
5. They are tough
These chickens are predator resistant and are known to fight back. The roosters are fearless. This makes them a good choice for free-ranging.
6. They are nice
My Dad loved his Rhode Island Red Henny-Penny more than any other animal. In fact, he entered her into the Brookville Pet Parade and won. Any way, they went through thick and thin together. Rhode Island Reds are great for cuddles when raised well. They are a great choice for families with children or adults who really like chickens.
7. They are generally healthy
Many, many breeds of chickens are prone to something. Amberlinks to egg difficulties, Silkies to feather soiling, leghorns to bone fractures etc.
Rhode Island Reds are pretty solid.
8. They are fun to hybridize
Rhode Island Blue (Rhode Island Red x Australorp).
Whether this is a pro or con, the Rhode Island Red is a great hybridizer creating breeds like Amberlink (Red x White Plymouth Rock or the unrelated Rhode Island White), Rhode Island Blue (Red x Australorp), the Speckledy (Red x Marans), and the Standard Brown (Rhode Island Red crossed with a bunch of different things). The problem is that this causes pure strands to die out.
CONS
They are kind of bossy
Australorp and Rhode Island Red buddies.
My Rhode Island Reds Roxy and Roux live in a mixed flock, and they are indisputably the top of the pecking order. Introducing older Rhode Island Reds into other flocks can go badly because they are bossy. The roosters probably shouldn’t be kept with other roosters.
2. They do not live as long as other chickens
Although they live much longer than hybrids, the Rhode Island Red average lifespan is 5-8 years (though many people including me have had longer lived fellows). This is smaller than the average 8-10 held by many chicken breeds, like Plymouth Rocks, Orpingtons, and Easter Eggers.
3. They are hard to find… sometimes
Many people claim this breed is increasingly rare compared to many breeds like the Leghorn and Plymouth Rock. That being said, I personally have never had trouble finding Reds when I wanted them.
4. They are louder than average chickens
Roxy squawking at the top of her lungs.
That goes for males and females. Urban Rhode Island Reds are not a great idea, but in suburbia they really aren’t too bad.
5. Commercial ones don’t go broody
While heritage strands retain this trait, it has been bred out of commercial strands because broody hens don’t lay. This means mama Rhode Island isn’t gonna happen. Sorry about that.
CONCLUSION
Well, there you go. The Rhode Island Red is a great chicken with major advantages and some little draw backs. I personally prefer a mixed flock, retaining a balance of different chickens who can do different jobs. I love my Rhode Island Reds, and I think you’ll love yours too.
Maple, my dear Amberlink chicken, with very little amber on her
A new chicken breed is reaching more and more popularity as the egg per chicken average goes higher, but are these chickens perfect, or are there some draw backs we need to know about?
Here are the pros and cons of these beautiful egg layers.
Pros
Eggs, and more eggs
Those dark brown three in a row are Amberlink
Estimations of how much eggs an Amberlink lays varies from 270-400. In my circumstances I’d say 365 eggs a year is a pretty good estimate which means about an egg a day.
That’s pretty great. However as they age, each year the average will go down, so keep that in mind.
2. Cold Tolerant
The amberlink is a terrific breed for up north. It can lay eggs throughout the winter, even when it drops below freezing.
3. Heat Tolerant
They can also withstand any earth climate that’s above zero. Even in the desert they’d be pretty okay given a source of water and shade. They’re really great chickens.
4. They are super sweet.
My little brother giving Maple a belly rub.
Not for eating. They are really cuddly, especially when hand raised. When I returned from vacation my Amberlinks flew over the fence onto me. They will let me pick them up whenever, and will often follow me around the barn yard.
5. They love chickens
Amber, another Amberlink of mine, hanging out with a Rhode Island Blue, and a Favarolles.
Besides loving humans, Amberlinks are crazy over other chickens making them a great choice for mixed flocks. They are especially good with close relatives, like Rhode island reds. I keep my three Amberlinks with a Speckled Sussex, two mix-breeds, a Faverolles, a Rhode Island Blue, and an Americana.
6. They aren’t too hard to sex
Set of exclusively female Amberlink chicks, as a Black Star pullet over looks their grass time.
They are not color sex-linked but rather feather sex-linked. You can tell the gender of a chick under 10 days old by the feathers that come in. 2 sets of flight feathers for females, 1 for males. After that, you must use traditional methods.
7. Their eggs taste really good and are pretty and are big
Yeah. That.
Amberlink egg, as contrasted by an extremely light blue Americana egg.
Well, all that said, these are pretty great chickens. So great in fact, lets get rid of all other chickens and only have Amberlinks.
Woah son. The cons are also big.
Cons
Short Life Span
Amberlinks have a life expectancy of 4 years. Other chickens tend to have 12. This is 8 less years of laying, and 8 less years of fun cuddles.
2. You cannot breed them
Amberlinks are a hybrid that does not breed true. They are bred from mixing together genetics Rhode Island Reds, White Plymouth Rocks, and White Island Reds. But even with that, they’re wonderful traits are brought about by years of careful selection and breeding. The personal breeder really has no hope but by from hatchery when it comes to the Amberlink.
Generation two may look like an Amberlinks, but they won’t lay like them.
3. They don’t ever go broody
Hybrid chickens tend to not go broody. As for the Amberlink, I have literally never heard tell of them going broody. They were actually bred to not go broody to increase egg production. For commercial farmers this is good news, but for the backyard hobby farmer, we kind of like broody chickens. Whether you count this pro or con, it is the truth.
4. Roosters get it hard
Because these chickens do not breed true, the roosters of this breed have no purpose other than to help defend a flock, which can more conveniently be done with a heritage long lived chicken breed. What with them being so easy to sex, roosters are easily eliminated. That means the 7 out of 10 baby chicks born as roosters may not live to adult hood. This is the grim truth of commercial farming, and it’s pretty depressing.
5. They make bad meat
For me this is a pro, but it also means roosters really serve no purpose. Amberlink meat is skimpy and flavorful, because these are egg birds. But what this means is I don’t have to worry about selling Amberlinks I’m attached to. Like the ten baby chicks I’m currently raising.
6. They are prone to having egg laying problems
Because these chickens lay so much, and because they have some imbredness from being a genetically engineered breed, they are more prone than normal chickens to prolapsed vent, egg binding, and other difficulties.
7. They eat a lot
All that egg protein got to come from somewhere, and that somewhere is your chicken food. Amberlinks must be well fed and supplied to be healthy, because they lay a lot.
8. They need lots of calcium
Due to high egg production, Amberlinks need a lot of calcium to make all the egg shells. If you do not provide this, they will prioritize eggs over bones, and their bones will gradually be deconstructed.
Conclusion
Well that’s that. Don’t let the cons necessarily discourage you. There may be one more, but the pros are bigger.
I personally find it quite fun to keep Amberlinks, and worth it. However, I will always keep other breeds too to balance out.
Depending on your situation, you may choose differently and hopefully you’ll choose right.
As for me, I’ve had quite a fun time with Maple, Honey and Amber!
Don’t be too quick to kill a snake in your garden, because some snakes just want to help you out.
If you have problems with bugs, or slugs, or hugs… wait never mind… if you have bug or slug problems a little snakey might just be the cure!
The goal of this article is to help you North American farmers know which legless buddies you want, which you don’t want, and how to attract them!
Remember, if you want to invite some snakeys in, DON’T USE PESTICIDE, that will kill the snake.
BENIFICIAL SNAKES
Garter Snake
Bluebird, My Snake
These are a type of snake that don’t get too big, three feet at the most. They are barely venomous, and the pain goes away quickly.
They are rarely interested in biting, and the venom is just for eating. So they usually only bite what looks like food, and you don’t look much like a worm (hopefully).
So it is safe to reach down and pick up one, though they may release a foul odor.
Instead of biting, they wriggle and thrash very vehemently.
They eat all the bugs that you don’t want, and maybe a few earthworms that you do want, but usually just the typical squishy problems like grubs, slugs, and various pest larva.
Depending on where you live, these guys will look different. Many are black with yellow stripes.
They usually have some stripes down their back, and/or a checkered pattern like Bluebird.
You can invite these guys in by a source of water, for they are very fond of swimming, and a stone wall in which they can hide.
So accept these guys in, will you?
Black Rat Snake
You can tell him apart from a racer because racer’s have white bellies.
These can get up to four feet, and are only venomous to their prey. However, they aren’t the best to hold, because they can still inflict a painful bite, and can even make you bleed, so do try to wear shoes if these buddies are in your garden (haha! I held it anyway).
They, like garters, will eat some bad pests, and will also appreciate emptying some of your mice/rat population.
As for all snakes, provide hiding places. Snakes love these.
However if you are a big-time farmer, these guys will be in for some baby chicks, so if you have those around, in cages that aren’t particularly snake-proof maybe this snake won’t fit in your yard.
Black snakes also like leaf piles, however, I’m not sure they jump into the leaves.
However, they may do it behind your back….
Black Racer Snake
A very similar snake with very similar wants, these guys will appreciate rotten wood and boards to sleep under.
Keep piles of brush or wood where these guys can feel at home. In other words, make your garden messy, and leave piles of random stuff around. The main thing that helps attract many snakes is a more wild garden, that you don’t keep completely trimmed, and clear.
They are also non-venomous, and will also be glad for a baby chick.
The owner of this blog wanted me to note that he hates with a passion because they killed his two-month old, hand raised baby dove.
King Snake
Florida King Snake, to be specific
These guys are another small snake that likes to hide in gardens and eat away at your mice.
They will eat any meat that they can fit, but luckily they’re fairly small, and could only go for small baby birds and mice.
Even Rats would be a bit big.
They don’t like to swim too much, but soaking in shallow water will be appreciated. They also would like a basking platform, like a flat rock, that will allow them to warm in the sun.
Eastern King Snake
Furthermore, they are known for their immunity to poison, and will dine on younger snakes that are venomous, helping keep your garden safer. However, they have also been known to dine on other nice snakeys, like the Garter Snake.
One species that is common is the Milk Snake.
Despite what Farmers used to think, these guys will not milk your cows, nor do they drink milk at all.
Green Snake
These fellows love long grass in which they can simply disappear, moist meadows, and pools of water.
They are small and green, with pale yellow bellies.
You must be careful about these guys because it is rather easy to accidentally mow over them, seeing that they blend in with the grass. Many farmers suggest keeping the area around your garden not mowed, or mowed with a safer tool like a scythe, or a goat.
They eat a diet of almost exclusively insects, and will clean your garden from pests.
Gopher Snake
Some people would see one of these and immediately attempt an assassination, maybe because of the size of a Gopher Snake, or the fact that they will try to imitate a highly venomous rattlesnake.
They can reach six feet, and therefore will be open to eating bigger prey, but still not chickens. Quail and pheasants, however may want to watch out.
A great benefit of Gopher Snakes is that they can eat rats, not just mice.
They are not venomous, and not harmful to humans.
If you want the Gopher Snake, attract them with generic hiding places.
Eastern Indigo Snake
This snake is very endangered, but helpful if you can get one. They like mice, but one of their favorite snacks is…
highly venomous snakes that you do not want in your yard.
However they can get up to eight feet, so beware for your small farm friends.
WHAT SNAKES YOU DO NOT WANT IN YOUR GARDEN
Copperhead
They like swimming.
These will eat mice… good so far… but, though they are quite small, if you step on one, they will be quick to bite, and you better hope you’re quick to the hospital.
If not treated almost immediately, you may or may end up in the cemetery.
My dear Grandmother was bitten by a Copperhead, but was relatively fine and is still alive. However, she remains with a hate for all snakes.
Kinda racist.
These guys like swimming, and keeping them out of your yard is a challenge, because they are so common.
They are a dull orange brown in color, with touches of darker coloration.
Cottonmouth
These highly, highly, highly venomous snakes spend most of their lives in ponds, and are also called Water Moccasins.
These are just as if not more dangerous than copperheads, and running into one is not good.
They are named because when they open their mouths, the inside is very white, looking like their mouths are cotton.
But the good news is unless you live near the coast and have a garden next to a pond, you probably won’t run into one in your garden.
Rattlesnake
These guys are noticeable for their rattler tails, which they use to make a loud rattling sound.
They are brown and camouflaged, and like out-west long grass prairies.
So unless you have a bunch of weeds in your garden, these won’t be very into you.
Inland Taipan
Unless you live in Australia, you won’t run into these snakes, which are the fastest and most venomous snakes in the world.
And if you do you’ll die in a half-an hour, filled with agony, as their strong venom tortures you to death.
CONCLUSION
So, I hope this has helped you figure out what snakey-snakes you wish for, and which snakey-snakes you’d prefer to keep away.
Just remember, all snakes appreciate, a not mowed, wild area, usually with a nearby source of water.
Also, a sunny area, which is already a place where you want your garden to be, is appreciated.
So, maybe you’ll go away today, with a little lest bias towards snake, and a little more knowledge about this natural, humane way to keep your garden pest-free.
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Want to See More of Ezekiel the Reptile Fanatic??? Check Out His Dinosaur Blog!
I’m sure you’ve heard that ducks and geese make great additions to your garden without any drawbacks! Let’s take a look into the truth of all that.
Uncle Scrooge, with his fennel, kale, and purple lettuce.
Pros
Ducks will eat bugs!
That is of course the main pro. In fact just this year as my cabbage what being annihilated by cabbage worms, I let the ducks in the garden and in a few days I saw no worms on my cabbage.
Geese Will Weed
Geese have an amazing ability to weed your garden they will eat most grasses and help keep your plants in good shape. They seem to avoid most cultivated plants.
Fertilizer
As long as there are water fowl in your garden, there’s gonna be new fertilizer.
Health
It’s very good for the ducks to have a garden to forage in.
Pool!
We often used their kiddy pool to water the garden! Recycle water! However don’t over water.
Cons
Your Plants Might Not Be Safe Per Se
Well, ducks have been known to eat lettuce, strawberries and red tomatoes. One year, my ducks absolutely annihilated a squash plant of ours too. I think it might have been infected by grubs they tried to eat.
And they in general might nip at a few leaves here and there.
Geese are best kept with large plants like corn, tomatoes, or squash. Avoid anything that is similar in size or shape to grass.
Aesthetics
If you are Mr. Fancy Garden, then you might not want ducks in there. They aren’t exactly skilled at house keeping. You might find mud puddles or your neat little beds catawampus. It happens.
Conclusion
Well, now that you know the pros and cons, it’s up to you to decide! Whatever you do, remember not to use pesticide or other such things in your garden before or when your ducks are in there.
So I hope this brings you to a conclusion for your waterfowl, and gives you an idea of what they help with and what they hurt. Good luck gardening with your duckies!
Pheasants aren’t nearly as big of predator targets as, say, quail for instance. They are aggressive usually killing any snakes that try something fishy, maybe even slaying a weasel or attacking a racoon.
But if you are me, then you don’t like risks, so you’ll do anything to guarantee these beautiful birds’ safety.
From the Air
Proofing from areal predators is simple for pheasants.
Obviously a roof is necessary, probably made out of either hardware cloth or chicken wire. Simple netting is not satisfactory at all, a hawk could rip that up in seconds. However netting is suggested as a second layer to prevent pheasants from breaking neck on the wire.
From beneath
Digging predators for pheasants are large like skunks or oppossums, so their holes take a while to dig, so you’ll probably notice before they get in.
But for safety, I mean what if you’re out of town or something, I suggest at least a foot of wire covering the floor on all sides, if not the entire floor.
And don’t just use window screens, or flimsy wire. They can tear it. I’d stick with hardware cloth.
Going Right Through
Luckily this coon is content with our leftover dessert
Chicken wire is positively trash when it comes to racoons, opossums, or weasels. Animals can just rip right through! I’d suggest a foot or two of hardware cloth, or a solid material, on the bottom of the sides.
You may think to your self, what if they just climb up???
Well for one weasels can’t climb.
Also you probably shouldn’t have ladders leaning against your cage or anything else that they could use. Hardware cloth’s openings are too small for them to climb on!
Plus opossums and racoons are usually going to rip wire enough for their arms to grab animals inside.
Dogs, either wolves or domestic, are also potential predators that can barge through chicken wire. Thus I keep my pens inside a large fenced area, fence tall enough that dogs can’t jump over!
So, I hope this helps keep your birds happy and safe, so, good luck pheasanting (which is a verb I just made up).
All these ducks besides muscovies, mandarins, and wood ducks, are bred from mallards, but to many beautiful colors! Care is very similar for all, but prices range from very cheap to extremely expensive. So lets take a look at all these ducks.
Mixbreed
Usually only $15 each depending on the mix, they come as mullards (Muscovy mallards), Rouen-pekins are common, resembling the black Swedish duck. They don’t breed true though.
The parents and the resulting mixed offspring.
Pekin
One of the most common duck breeds comes in various sizes. Pure-white. They are usually $6 a duckling. They lay 200-300 eggs a year.
Rouen
Resembling mallards, females are brown and boys are greyish with green heads. The main difference is that they are flightless. They are usually $6 per duckling. They lay 140-150 eggs a year.
Mallard
Usually $6 ducklings, the mallard is the same situation as the rouen but it can fly and they have much lower egg production (less than 100 a year).
Khaki Campbell
$7 a duckling. Shown here is two females. Males look the same but with a greenish head. They lay the most of all ducks laying more than 300 a year.
Cayuga
Usually $7 ducklings. Females are less green. They lay black eggs! Usually 100-150 eggs a year.
Swedish
There are blue Swedish and black Swedish (and the very rare speckled Swedish). The boys have greenish heads. They all lay 100-180 a year. $7 ducklings.
Blue Sweedish
Black Swedish
Buff Orpington (Or Buff)
$7 ducklings. Males have green heads. 180-245 eggs a year.
Indian Runner
About $9 a duckling adorable and straight postured. They lay greenish-bluish eggs, white eggs, or black eggs. High layers, 300-350 a year! They also can do racing. They come in soooo many varieties, that you could right a whole post on it too. They are very popular.
Magpie
$9 ducklings. Often mixed with Ancona to enhance coloring. They usually lay 220-290 eggs a year.
Ancona
$10 ducklings. Much like magpie but with more colors such as brown. They are also larger. They give usually around 260 large green or white eggs a year.
Duclair
$10 ducklings. Green laying pekins basically. Not as common. They lay 80-100 large green eggs a year.
Welsh Harlequin
About $10 a duckling. 100-350 eggs a year. Males have darker heads.
Saxony
Usually $10 Ducklings. Dual-purpose Saxony ducks are much smaller egg layers, 80-100 a year.
Crested
The polish of the duck world, they range at about $10 a duckling. Mostly show birds, egg production is usually at 100-130 a year. White or blue eggs.
Hookbill
$10 dollar ducklings. Intriguing looking. Rare. They are quick growers and can start laying fertile eggs as early as 4 months. Egg production ranges from low one hundreds to high two hundreds! Blue-green eggs.
Bali
Posture like Indian runner, crest like a crested duck. Usually $10 a duckling. 120-250 eggs a year. Eggs blue-green to white.
Muscovy
Usually $10 ducklings. They hiss instead of quacking. They are mostly for meat but lay around 180 speckled cream eggs a year. Their eggs take much longer to hatch. They are almost more like a goose than a duck.
Silver Appleyard
Usually $10 a duckling. Beautiful ducks! Laying between 200 and 270 a year! Females lighter and less colorful.
Golden Cascade
About $12 a duckling. Fast growing and mostly for meat. However they do lay well.
Call Duck
Here compared with mallard. Smallest duck breed. Usually $17.60 a duckling. Come in many different colors, like minis of other breeds. Similar concept to bantams. They lay 50-150 usually white, sometimes greenish, smallish eggs a year
East Indes Duck
Usually $100 an adult pair. Very valuable and rare. Lay 40-100 eggs a year. Similar to Cayuga also laying black or grey eggs. It doesn’t make a lot of sense to have these unless you are going to breed them, because you might as well just have the only slightly less colorful Cayuga.
Wood Duck
Usually $225 an adult pair. Comes in silver. Cream or tan eggs, not for eating! These bird eggs are valuable!
Mandarin
Usually $295 an adult pair! Comes in white. Tanish eggs.
Nigerian dwarf goats are the kind of goats I personally have. They are small but good for milking, and their babies are really cute. There are of course other kinds of pygmy goats and stuff, but when it comes to having actual profit, Nigerians are your best bet.
Water
Our goats are just content with constant access to water buckets, which we normally fill up twice a day in the summer.
Food
There are different kinds of goat food, we use texturized but you don’t have to. Substituting with sheep food or other animal’s food is not good.
The amount of food varies greatly as pasturing bucks usually don’t even get fed and milking or pregnant does need much more. It also varies on an individuals metabolism etc.
Coastal hay and alfalfa are important as well. Make sure to give grazing room as well.
Supplements
Goats need minerals as well, and goat minerals aren’t hard to find.
Deficiency could cause dandruff, illness, and other problems.
In some areas you may need to supplement with copper boluses as well.
Housing
130 square feet per goat in the herd is suggested, and make sure there is plenty of shelter because goats (our goats at least) hate rain.
Breeding
Baby goat coming into the world, seeing its mom and Herbert the alpaca who seems uncapable of staying out of this sort of thing.
new born goat
Breeding Nigerian Dwarf goats is normally year round, so if you have a buck keep it only with the pregnant does or supposed-to-be-pregnant does. If you have a buck keep him with the doe that is supposed to be pregnant for at least a month to make sure she’s pregnant.
Pregnant doe a few weeks from birth. Staring at me… AAAGGGGH!
I’d keep goats that are nearing the age of birth away from the buck, who might hurt the babies. Probably not, but don’t take pointless risk.
You can tell when a goat is within 24 hours of birth by seeing if you can feel the ligaments by her tail. If you cannot feel them and you’re trying very hard, she’s within 24 hours of birth. Also her udder will begin to fill up.
Cross breeding is not terrible if the doe is larger than buck, but it’s kind of dumb, as they are much more valuable purebred. However crosses sometimes take the best of both, making a new breed which is better than the parents in one or several ways.
Speaking of valuable, blue eyed Nigerian dwarf goats and polled ones are very valuable, but having a double gene of polled could result in hermaphroditism, which you don’t want for a couple of reasons. So I’d not breed a polled with another polled.
The baby girl, Pip, the one closer to camera, has blue eyes, and is thus more valuable.
Of course if you’re getting Nigerian Dwarfs, you probably are going to milk them.
Pip grew up and had her own babies
Some people to get more milk remove the baby young and bottle feed it cow milk. That is not as healthy for the baby as goat milk and it’s a lot of work. From just three does, whose breeding is scattered throughout the year, our family of seven got enough milk for most of the year, and we always left the babies with the mom.
Except we locked them up at night. So in the morning we’d have lots of milk. The advantages of taking them away from Mom without breaking the natural herd connection!
Compatibility
Goats can live with chickens, guinea fowl, turkeys, peafowl, ducks, geese, other goats, sheep if same gender, you don’t want cross breeding, alpacas, rabbits, emus, donkeys, and pigs given enough room and a kind temper.
Where The Chickens Roost 